Pulaski Liquor Emporium is the kind of joint where everybody already knows everybody else's name, but if you go in there a stranger, you will be treated right. The pour is about the coldest in Baltimore, and the woman who pours it is quick, efficient, and more entertaining than any Keno box or televised ballgame that might otherwise distract you. The lighting: harsh, direct, fluorescent and bright. The setting: a liquor store in which stacks of cases of alcoholic beverages, just a stick's length from the pool tables, form the boundary line between "retail establishment" and "corner bar." The BD7 liquor license is designed as just such a hybrid, and there are more than 600 of them across Baltimore City. But so few actually operate like this that the license type itself has fallen under attack. Who knew by-the-book could be so cool?