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(NOAH SCIALOM)

Once upon a time, local food in Baltimore meant sauerkraut and Berger cookies, pit beef and crabs slathered in Old Bay. Today, it still means all that, but also fermented radishes and pigs that spend their lives foraging for acorns in the woods. As each new restaurant flicks on the filament lights over the bar, where a bewhiskered bartender mixes a cocktail in a mason jar with herbs grown on the roof, we may be tempted to yawn. But don't. The pioneers in the local food movement are still going strong, and the standards they set remain fixed. Baltimore is dancing at the edge of the national spotlight for its inventive, quirky, and often bootstrap cuisine. The listings here are arranged by neighborhood. We're sorry we don't have the space to cover everything; go forth and discover.

($ = most entrees are $10 and under, $$ = $10-$15, $$$ = $15-$25, $$$$ = $25 and above)

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Station North

The Chesapeake Restaurant (1701 N. Charles St., [410] 547-2760, thechesapeakebaltimore.com, $$$) A Baltimore classic revived like a breath of fresh air off the bay. Slurp some oysters at the long marble bar or recline in a leather booth for one of their nightly specials.

Lost City Diner (1730 N. Charles St., [410] 547-5678, $$) Flew off the radar for a bit, but here's hoping this retro space-agey diner keeps churning out shakes in the vintage Waring.

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Joe Squared (133 W. North Ave., [410] 545-0444,joesquared.com, $$ Square pizzas, hip music, and heaps of risotto. Plus drink specials to keep the artists happy. (Now also at Power Plant Live, with additional projects in the works.)

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