Before my recent dinner at Cosima (3000 Falls Road, Mill No. 1,  708-7352, cosimamill1.com), I had never met Donna Crivello, the restaurant's proprietor. But I was familiar with the work of her hands—both through the various incarnations of her signature eponymous restaurants (now winnowed to a sole location, Donna's at Cross Keys), and through Cosima's website, which is filled with gorgeous images of Crivello at work. Nails cut blunt, fingers painted with flour, her hands roll a long sausage of dough across a wooden board, pluck rosemary needles from their stem, and carefully pour olive oil from a red gallon tin can over a pan of focaccia. In the one photo that shows her whole person, Crivello, smiling broadly, cradles a giant cone of breadsticks as if it were a bouquet of flowers or an infant. One hand supports the bread gently from the bottom of the cone; the other hand, ruddy and with splayed fingers, holds the bread close to her heart.