Q: I've found a simple solution for tight lug nuts that I've been using for over 30 years. Whenever I get a car, I remove the lug nuts and wheel, brush the threads with a wire brush and lightly coat the threads with anti-seize compound. I also put some compound on the wheel rim where it makes contact with the hub or drum. It just takes a little bit of anti-seize compound. It keeps parts from rusting together. It allows an accurate torque to be applied when tightening the lug nuts. It's impossible to apply proper torque with rusted threads. I have never had a lug nut come loose and have never had a problem getting them off when needed.
A: You make some great suggestions, with which I agree — mostly. You mention that proper torque is important. I agree and that means using a torque wrench. But experts tell us not to use any lubricant, including anti-seize compound, on wheel studs or nuts. The tech folks at Tire Rack state: "Torque specifications are for dry threads only. The fastener threads should be free of oil, dirt, grit, corrosion, etc. It is important NOT to lubricate hardware threads or seats. The friction at which torque is measured against should come from the hardware seats. Lubricating hardware threads and seats alters the friction generated which will result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over-torqueing of the hardware."
Q: We drive a 2017 Subaru Forester. Two times in the past four months the battery has died. We took it to the Subaru dealer after a jump start and the battery tested fine. My only theory is that our low mileage (15,000) and short distance driving does not properly charge the battery. Can you shed any light on our problem? It's a bit disturbing knowing the car might not start.
B.C., Evanston, Ill.
A: I agree with your hunch. Although modern alternators are quite efficient, if you do not give them time to adequately recharge the battery, it may not start the engine. Short hops are the battery's bane. (They are also the ogre of oil.) A good option is to invest in a simple battery maintainer that you can plug in if you don't plan to drive for several days.
Q: I replaced a windshield on my 2008 Honda CRV and found that the interior wind noise increased dramatically. Is this what usually happens when you have a windshield replaced? Now my 2016 Avalon needs a windshield and I'm hesitant to have it replaced.
A: Many wind noise problems experienced after a windshield is replaced can be due to a gap in the polyurethane seal, a loose or poorly fitting molding, corrosion, a poor installation of the replacement windshield or a defective curve on the replacement windshield. These are all issues that should be covered under warranty and usually at no additional cost to the vehicle owner to correct. Some late model vehicles come with safety options connected to the windshield. Technology like acoustically designed windshields to help reduce interior noise, rain sensors and special coatings to reduce UV rays are some of the possible options. In addition to keeping you safe in an accident, a vehicle's windshield is more important than ever and replacement should only be trusted to qualified professionals who follow the Auto Glass Replacement Safety Standard, says industry consultant Nik Frye.
ABOUT THE WRITER
Bob Weber is a writer and mechanic who became an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician in 1976. He maintains this status by seeking certification every five years. Weber's work appears in professional trade magazines and other consumer publications. His writing also appears in automotive trade publications, Consumer Guide and Consumers Digest.
Send questions along with name and town to Motormouth, Rides, Chicago Tribune, 160 N. Stetson Ave., Fourth Floor, Chicago, IL 60601 or email@example.com.