I'm looking forward to Sunday's debut of "Treme," the new HBO series by Baltimore's David Simon -- though I worry about getting hooked on that and "The Pacific" at the same time. I've only visited New Orleans once, but I loved the place instantly for its architecture, food and music. It is the rare American city that has avoided the redevelopment formula so popular in the 1970s. (Waterfront -- check. Aquarium/Science center -- check. Chain stores and restaurants -- check.) "Treme" promises to take us well beyod the city's tourist quarters.