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Real men eat steak and read Esquire

The September issue of Esquire, which will be on newsstands tomorrow, contains a celebration of steak, including a list of the 20 best steaks in the U.S. The Prime Rib's prime rib is one of them.

I just got off the phone with Ryan D'Agostino, the editor in charge of "The Esquire Almanac of Steak." He told me that critic John Mariani, who picked the 20 cuts, "loves the place" -- that is, the original Prime Rib in Baltimore. It, and not its branches in DC and Philadelphia, is the one honored.

The whole package is pretty entertaining, with a review of Outback by John Mariani, an explanation of why steak has gotten so expensive (hint: blame corn) and a Steak Information Center, which has some good information but also some not so useful statements like "Prime [the cut]: what you want."

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Here's what Esquire has to say about the Prime Rib: ...

The Prime Rib, Baltimore

PRIME RIB

On the side: Fried potato skins

At the Prime Rib, it's always 1965—the year it opened. The leopard-print dining room looks like George Steinbrenner's private club. The waiters wear tuxes. You wear a jacket. And the kitchen roasts the majestic prime rib on the bone, its collar of fat suffused into the inner layer, the core a rose red all of it giving off the intoxicating aroma of old money. 1101 North Calvert Street; 410-539-1804; theprimerib.com

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

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