The Hideaway in Odenton is smokin'

Bob Krohn is excited about his barbecue. He should be.

Krohn is the man behind the smoker at The Hideaway, the out-of-the-way Odenton restaurant he co-owns with Danny and Diane Reugg. The restaurant is in the space that formerly housed Jim's Hideaway, a crab house that was an Odenton fixture for decades.

About a year ago, the trio purchased Jim's, renovating the space and reinventing the menu. Earlier this year, The Hideaway opened, with a fresh look and new menu built around Krohn's barbecue dishes.

During our visit, about a month after opening day, the service was friendly, but still working out some kinks, and some side dishes needed fine-tuning. But the barbecue? It was ready for its close-up.

Scene & Decor The Hideaway, as the name suggests, is tucked in an unlikely spot on a small, partly residential street. A big, rambling building, the restaurant has several distinct dining areas.

During our Wednesday night visit, the three main rooms were each about three-quarters full, with families and couples of all ages out for dinner. We settled into a deep booth in the largest of the rooms, which also included a long bar and a stage (unoccupied except for dancing kids from a nearby table).

Appetizer Most of the items on The Hideaway's menu were, at some point, touched by the smoker. The "nachos" ($9.95) — actually waffle fries topped with pulled pork plus traditional nacho accompaniments like salsa and cheese — were fun and spicy, thanks to slices of jalapeno.

Even under a pile of Mexican-inspired ingredients, the pork itself was a standout — well-seasoned and tender, with subtle smoky flavor.

The menu suggested ordering the chicken wings "naked" ($9.95), then doctoring them with one of the three sauces provided in squeeze bottles on each table. Though we like our sauces a little spicier and not quite as sweet as The Hideaway's versions, the wings themselves were crispy and smoky and fantastic. Even without sauce, we loved them.

Entrees Krohn's smoking skills work across meats. From a half-rack of ribs ($16.99) dusted with a spicy rub to a tender brisket sandwich ($11.99), his touch with seasonings and cooking time was impressive.

We especially liked the smoked fried chicken entree ($12.99). First smoked, then battered and fried, the chicken combined some of our favorite textures and flavors. Smoky meat and crispy batter make a great pair.

The only clunker in the bunch was a baked potato topped with pulled pork, caramelized onions and cheddar cheese ($8.99). Though the pork itself was very good, the potato was under seasoned and the dish as a whole felt heavy and disjointed.

Sides like Brussels sprouts and potato salad also needed an additional shake of salt. Though their ingredients were cooked nicely, next to the carefully seasoned meats, their flavors were forgettable. French fries, however, were crispy and salty — just the way we like them.

Drinks Barbecue and beer go hand in hand, and the beer menu at The Hideaway covers all the expected local and national bases. Though one of our choices — Flying Dog Brewery's Pearl Necklace Oyster Stout — was unavailable, we made do with a combination of Yuengling drafts ($3.99) and Natty Boh ($2.49), poured from the can into a chilly mason jar.

Desserts The Hideaway's desserts are stored in a low glass-front case, sitting exactly at toddler eye level. About half the treats are made in-house; many of the rest are sourced from local bakers.

We tried the pecan pie ($6.99) and lemon square ($1.99) and liked them both. The pie was made offsite but the lemon square was made on the premises; both were traditional and likable interpretations of the desserts.

Service During our meal, Krohn stopped by to introduce himself and welcome us to the restaurant. We watched as he bounced from table to table, cheerily saying hello.

The rest of his staff shared that happy attitude, though their smiles didn't completely make up for other service glitches, including a forgotten beer, delivered 15 minutes late without apology, unfilled water glasses and an odd episode that involved us unloading our own entrees from a waiter's tray. (The Hideaway should invest in some tray racks; they would make the staff's job easier.)

But once we had that beer, we were content. It's hard to be anything but happy when you're surrounded by smoked meats.