Cosima opened in February in a renovated boiler room, with a sophisticated bar, a wood-fired oven and soaring brick and stone walls. The Sicilian and Southern Italian dishes were as decorous as the place. But one plate took a pasta and seafood combination to new heights: fettuccine nero con aragosta, or cuttlefish ink pasta with lobster. Besides the lovely balance of flavors, the dish is a beauty. The silky, ebony noodles are a base for a grilled half lobster in the shell that juts out of the bowl, accompanied by lobster sauce and charred tomato.