It may then be futile to recommend grenache, the most underrated wine at least in this week’s wine column. But we’ll try. Grenache can be light enough to sip or serious enough to complement beef. It is thin-skinned and thus light in color and body, but it offers a lot of fresh fruit flavors. Strawberry, raspberry, plum and cherry flavors are often joined by leather and spice. In short, lots of flavor without those mouth-puckering tannins. For that reason, grenaches are great matches to grilled chicken, pasta, burgers, pizza and even some fish.