Benjamin French is part of a French bakery and cafe invasion in Central Florida. Owner Benjamin Coquillou's eatery recently moved to Thornton Park after a stint on Goldenrod Road in Orlando.
The new space near downtown O-town is lean and modern, which gives a nice visual balance to the confections and pastries that fill the bakery cases.
The lineup of sweets ($1.80-$3.99) includes delicate Napoleons, plump eclairs, small tarts, Paris-brest (choux pastry filled with a fluffy cream), fraisier (a gorgeous cake with strawberries), religieuse (adorable stacked cream puffs), crème brulee, coconut flan, flan patissier (large wedges of thick browned custard on a buttery pate brisee crust), verrines (artfully layered desserts) and macarons (two gracefully domed egg-white based cookies with a center filling that can range from textured fruit concoctions to velvety, pastelike spreads).
Customers place orders from small menus at the counter. Food or drink is delivered by the friendly and efficient staff to the outdoor tables, one of the rail seats inside or to the small grouping of comfy chairs in the back.
The bakery also carries a small selection of imported French grocery products ranging from sea salts to herbes de Provence, the coveted seasoning blends that can include authentic flavors of southern France such as lavender, basil, fennel, marjoram, rosemary, sage, summer savory and thyme.
For lunch, we started with the La Montagne bacon quiche ($6.85). The large portion of creamy custard had rich yolk flavor, sweet onion notes and a nutmeg finish. For texture, the wedge was studded with bits of sweet pork and goat cheese.
The Le Monaco chicken breast sandwich ($7.99) was layered with tomato, hard-boiled egg slices and lemony fresh mayonnaise. The poultry was tender and juicy on a ciabatta-style baguette. A small mixed green salad came on the side.
The croque madame ($5.99), a ham and Swiss that was pan-fried in butter and dressed in cheesy béchamel sauce with a fried egg perched on top, was over-the-top decadent.
Our favorites from the bakery case were the heavenly flaky and tender vanilla eclair ($3.99), the cheek-tingling chocolate tart ($3.99) and the blissful two-bite macarons ($1.80).
More bakeries, cafesfor Francophiles
Café 906: 906 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park (at Denning Drive); 407-975-0600; cafe906.blogspot.com and Facebook
Chez Jacqueline: 101 N. Country Club Road, Lake Mary; 407-321-5662; Facebook
Croissant Gourmet Bakery: 120 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park; 407-622-7753; Facebook and CroissantGourmet.com
Dylan's Deli: 1198 Orange Ave., Orlando; 407-622-7578; dylansdeli.net and Facebook
La Gourmandise French Bakery: 359 W. Granada Blvd., Ormond Beach; 386-672-5594; Facebook and FrenchBakery.net
Le Macaron: 216 N. Park Ave., Winter Park; 321-295-7958; Facebook
Mon Delice: 557 E. Third Ave., New Smyrna Beach; 386-427-6555; Facebook
Sweet Traditions: 126 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-656-6338; 212 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-2232; Facebook
hmcpherson@tribune.com or 407-420-5498
Benjamin French
Bakery & Cafe
Where: 716 E. Washington St. in Orlando's Thornton Park
When: 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Sunday
How much: $5-$9
Extras: Catering, gourmet ingredients such as artisanal herbs and salt
Wheelchair access: Easy
Credit: All major
Call: 407-797-2253
Online: BenjaminFrenchBakery.com and Facebook
