Planning this trip
THE BEST WAYFrom LAX, connecting service to Venice is offered on Lufthansa, Air France, Alitalia, KLM, Delta, British, US Airways and Aer Lingus. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,170.
TELEPHONESTo call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the local number.
CAMPO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
WHERE TO STAYRuzzini Palace Hotel, Campo Santa Maria Formosa, 041-241-0447, www.ruzzinipalace.com, is a beautifully restored palazzo that was home to the Ruzzini family beginning in 1586. Luxurious rooms with a mixture of traditional and contemporary furnishings start around $300 a night.
Hotel al Piave, 4838-40 Ruga Giuffa , 041-528-5174, www.hotelalpiave.com, is a well-kept Venetian hotel that has numerous family-sized rooms; rates for standard doubles start around $210, including breakfast.
RESTAURANTSAl Giardinetto da Severino, 4928 Ruga Giuffa, 041-528-5332, www.algiardinetto.it, has a vine-covered terrace and a well-rounded menu of Italian favorites; about $50 for two courses.
Osteria al Mascaron, on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa near the campo, 041-522-5995, is a wonderful spot known especially for its antipasti; about $50 for two courses.
CAMPO SAN ZACCARIA
HOTELSHotel Fontana, on Campo San Provolo, 041-522-0579, www.hotelfontana.it, is an amiable, family-run hotel with old-fashioned furnishings; doubles start around $85, including breakfast.
Hotel Villa Igea, Campo San Zaccaria, 041-241-0956, www.hotelvillaigea.it, has small but well-kept rooms. Doubles start around $230, including breakfast.
Liassidi Palace Hotel, 3405 Ponte dei Greci, 041-520-5658, www.liassidipalacehotel.com, occupies a 600-year-old Venetian palace restored with a contemporary flair; doubles start around $350, including breakfast.
RESTAURANTSAl Covo, 3968 Campiello della Pescaria , 041-522-3812, offers rare and wonderful daily specials; about $75 for two courses.
Trattoria alla Rivetta, on Salizzada San Provolo by the bridge over the canal, 041-528-7302, is a tiny Venetian classic that serves meat, pasta and the house specialty, sardines in oil. About $40 for two courses.
CAMPO SAN BARNABA
HOTELSBed and Breakfast Fujiyama, 2727A Calle Lunga San Barnaba , 041-724-1042, www.bedandbreakfast-fujiyama.it, is in a quiet house; doubles start around $120, including breakfast.
Hotel Locanda San Barnaba, 2785-86 Calle del Traghetto, 041-241-1233, www.locanda-sanbarnaba.com, has big rooms and a handsome second-floor parlor; doubles start around $180, including breakfast.
Palazzo Stern Hotel, on the Grand Canal at Ca' Rezzonico, 041-277-0869, www.palazzostern.com, is a newly opened and painstakingly restored palazzo with its own chapel ; doubles start around $280, including breakfast.
RESTAURANTSAl Profeta, on Calle Lunga San Barnaba, 041-523-7466, serves an interesting array of pizzas, as well as meat dishes; pizza for one $10 to $15.
Antica Trattoria la Furatola, 2870A Calle Lunga San Barnaba, 041-520-8594, is a small, cheerful restaurant that serves fabulous seafood; about $50 for two courses.
Locanda da Montin, on the Fondamenta di Borgo, 041-522-7151, has a big, vine-bowered garden and homemade tagliatelle; about $50 for two courses.