If you go

THE BEST WAY TO HAY-ON-WYE, WALES

From LAX, British, Air New ZeaIand, United, American and Virgin Atlantic offer nonstop service to London, and American, United, KLM, Air Canada, Delta, US Airways, Air France and Lufthansa offer connecting service (change of plane). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,241, including taxes and fees.

There is no train service to Hay-on-Wye. From London's Paddington Station take the train to Hereford, which has regular bus connections to Hay. From Welshpool we caught a direct train back to London. Walk-up, point-to-point tickets on British trains have become quite expensive. Even for limited travel, a rail pass can save money. A Flexible pass good for three days of travel within two months cost $229, and, in my case, saved a few dollars. http://www.britrail.com/passes/britrail-pass

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code) and 44 (the country code for Wales.)

WHERE TO STAY

What follows are accommodations we used on Offa's Dyke Path between Hay-on-Wye and Welshpool. They're generally 10 to 12 miles apart, and several require short detours off the trail. All prices include a full English breakfast.

The Firs B&B, Church Street, Hay-on-Wye; 1497-821800, http://www.firs-hay.co.uk. $55 per person.

Royal Oak Inn, Gladestry, Kington; 1544-370669, http://www.royaloakgladestry.co.uk. $55 per person.

Radnorshire Arms Hotel, High Street, Presteigne; 1544-267406, http://www.radnorshirearmshotel.com. Doubles $150.

Bryn Heulog B&B, Llanfair Waterdine, Knighton; 1547-528155, http://www.offasdyke.demon.co.uk/w16300.htm. $44 per person.

Mellington Hall Hotel, Mellington, Churchstoke; 1588 620456, http://www.mellingtonhallhotel.com. (Note: Churchstoke is the nearest town, but Mellington Hall is right on Offa's Dyke Path.) Doubles from $213.

Royal Oak Hotel, The Cross, Welshpool: 1938 552217, http://www.royaloakhotel.info. Doubles from $119.

TO LEARN MORE

Offa's Dyke Assn., http://www.offasdyke.demon.co.uk; National Trail Assn., http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke:

Both sites are full of useful information, from mileage charts to accommodation booking. The Offa's Dyke Assn. lists outfitters that will book lodging for you and, in many cases, forward your luggage each day. Most accommodations will also do this themselves for a fee.

There are at least half a dozen guidebooks to Offa's Dyke Path. Some books are oriented north to south, and some south-to-north. I used "The Offa's Dyke Path" by David Hunter (Cicerone), which was quite good.