Eastern Shore
Summer retreat
East of the Chesapeake Bay is a spot ready to heat up
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Sometime beginning in the mid-to-late spring, the seemingly quiet Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay, where the coast's edge is a jagged line of islands and inlets creeping toward the mainland of the DelMarVa Peninsula, becomes a mecca of tourism, a proverbial Garden of Eden for the summer, complete with beaches, boardwalks, boat trips and bushels of crabs.
This is the essence of Maryland's summer -- just don't forget the E-Z Pass, otherwise you may stay marooned on the Bay Bridge.
Just south of the bridge's span, on the way to perennial favorite destinations such as Ocean City, Rehoboth and Bethany Beach, is a trio of towns that can rival their ocean-front brethren. Talbot County's Easton and St. Michaels and Dorchester County's Cambridge a little further south offer plenty in the way of attractions, activities, dining, lodging and shopping minus all the droves of people who annually make the pilgrimage to the Atlantic beaches.
All three are historic locations and are steeped in nautical tradition. However, even though they all have the same humble beginnings, each has grown into its own distinct character and attract different types of people.
Easton, located just off Route 50, is the Talbot County seat and by far the most populous of the three. Much of what defined Easton in years past has been updated to the 21st century with modern art galleries, numerous boutiques for fashion and jewelry, and several fancy dining establishments.
St. Michaels lies west of Easton, outside of its busier atmosphere. It is the quintessential sailing town for the wealthy as evidenced by the yachts occupying the slips, the grandiose "summer cottages" peppering the town and of course the gourmet restaurants and expensive boutiques.
Cambridge is fighting an uphill battle to gain some recognition alongside more popular locales to the north and east. Cambridge's offerings are comparable to those of Easton and St. Michaels, including the lavish Hyatt Regency resort.
Hotels
CAMBRIDGE
• Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Golf Resort, Spa and Marina, 100 Heron Blvd. at Route 50, 410-901-1234. Sitting on the banks of the Choptank River, this hotel has all the ingredients for the perfect weekend getaway. Summer rates: $249-$549.
• Killarney B Inn B, 102 Killarney Road, 410-901-9899. For a friendly and cozy lodging experience, try this bed and breakfast. Summer rates: $100-$175.
ST. MICHAELS
• The Inn at Perry Cabin, 308 Watkins Lane, 410-745-2200. This hotel combines historic charms with modern amenities. Summer rates: $330-$770.
• Folly's Cove, 24811 Rays Point Road, 410-745-5515. Folly's Cove is a favorite bed and breakfast in St. Michaels. Summer rates: $155-$235.
EASTON
• Historic Tidewater Inn, 101 E. Dover St., 800-237-8775. Antique meets trendy at this relaxing Chesapeake resort. Summer rates: $185-$279.
Restaurants
CAMBRIDGE
• Canvasback Restaurant and Irish Pub, 420 Race St., 410-221-7888. A local favorite, the Canvasback's Eastern Shore cuisine is infused with Italian accents.
• Snappers Waterfront Cafe, 112 Commerce St., 410-228-0112. For a casual and fun dining experience, Snappers serves seafood, American classics and southwestern specialties.
ST. MICHAELS
• 208 Talbot, 208 Talbot St., 410-745-3838. Wines and beers are second to none in terms of quality and variety, and their entrees are rather reasonably priced for the kind of food you get.
• The Crab Claw Restaurant, 304 Mill St. at Navy Point, 410-745-2900. Eat crabs and other Chesapeake classics on the dock.
EASTON
• Chez Lafitte, 331 E. Dover St., 443-786-1366. French and Cajun cuisine in a trendy atmosphere, complete with champagnes and vintage wines.
• Restaurant Local, 101 E. Dover St., 410-819-8088. Attached to the Historic Tidewater Inn, the restaurant offers a range of creative seafood options.
• Out of the Fire, 22 Goldsborough St., 410-770-4777. This restaurant and wine bar serves up seafood and meats.
Nightlife
CAMBRIDGE
• Allure Night Club & Lounge, 601 Chesapeake Court, 410-901-8310. For dancing, DJs and live entertainment, Allure is a fun night out.
ST. MICHAELS
• Foxy's Marina Bar, 125 Mulberry St., 410-745-4340. Relax on the dock with one of Foxy's many concoctions.
• Carpenter Street Saloon, 113 S. Talbot St., 410-745-5111. Find music, pool tables, video games and free popcorn at this welcoming tavern.
EASTON
• Scossa Restaurant & Lounge, 8 N. Washington St., 410-822-2202. This Italian restaurant features an inviting bar with top-shelf wines.
Fun
CAMBRIDGE
• Richardson Maritime Museum, 401 High St., 410-221-1871. Learn about the Chesapeake Bay at this small museum.
• Harriet Tubman Museum, 424 Race St., 410-228-0401. Exhibits highlight the life of Harriet Tubman and her Maryland history.
ST. MICHAELS
• Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, Mill St. at Navy Point, 410-745-2916. Learn about Chesapeake history and the craft of shipbuilding.
• St. Michaels Winery, 605 S. Talbot St., 410-745-0808. Take a tour of the winery and sample some wines.
• Chesapeake Carriage Company, 9072 New Road, 410-745-4011. Enjoy a ride through St. Michaels in a horse-drawn carriage.
EASTON
• Academy Arts Museum, 106 South St., 410-822-2787. Check out an art exhibit, enroll in a workshop or watch a live performance.
• Easton Point Marina, 975 Port St., 410-822-1201. Full-service marina offers the best of bay activities, including fishing, crabbing, boating and jet skiing.
• Hog Neck Golf Course, 10142 Old Cordova Road, 410-822-6079. Hit the course or the driving range.
Shopping
CAMBRIDGE
• Packing House Antique Mall, 411 Dorchester Ave., 410-221-8544. Antique lovers can search through endless treasures.
ST. MICHAELS
• Chesapeake Trading Co., 102 S. Talbot St., 410-745-9797. Check out brand name clothing, shoes and accessories from top designers.
• Coco and Company, 209 S. Talbot St., 410-745-3400. Shop for vintage furnishings, handmade jewelry and more.
EASTON
• Amish Country Farmers Market, 101 Marlboro Road, Easton Plaza, 410-822-8989. From food to country collectibles and crafts, this market features all the classic Amish goods.
Events
June
Eastern Shore Chamber Music Festival // Easton / 410-819-0380. June 1-15. Check out outstanding musical performances by small ensembles. Times and ticket prices vary.
Strawberry Festival and Craft Show // St. Luke's United Methodist Church, 304 Talbot St. in St. Michaels / 410-745-2534. June 7. Crafts, bake sale, games and more. Free.
Antique and Classic Boat Festival // Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, Navy Point in St. Michaels / 410-745-2916. June 13-15. Boat building demonstrations, crafts, music, food and boat displays. Price included in museum admission: $13 for adults, $10 for seniors, $6 for kids (6-17), free for kids younger than 6.
July
Independence Day Celebration and Carnival // Easton Main Street / 410-820-8822. June 30-July 5. Celebrate the Fourth of July with carnival rides, food, games and fireworks. Fireworks free, special rates for carnival.
Tuckahoe Annual Show // Easton / 410-463-1897. July 10-13. Check out the Tuckahoe Steam and Gas Association's annual celebration.
Plein Air-Easton! Competition and Arts Festival // Easton / 410-822-7297. July 21-27. Observe artists, browse and purchase their works, attend artist talks and more at this annual arts competition. Fees vary.
97th Annual Cambridge Classic // Cambridge/ www.cpbra.com. July 26-27. Check out two days of boat racing.
August
Seafood Feast-I-Val // Sailwinds Park in Cambridge / 410-228-1211. Aug. 9. Stuff yourself with seafood while enjoying live entertainment. $30 for adults in advance, $35 at gates, $10 for kids.
September
ChesapeakeMan Ultra Triathlon, Aqua Velo and SwimFest // Cambridge / 410-964-1246. Sept. 27. Run, bike, swim or do all three in athletic competitions. Registration required.
--Luci Mazzullo contributed to this article.
Copyright © 2008, The Baltimore Sun
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