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Johnny Unitas
Braciole retains Depression-era charms in some restaurants, home kitchens
Braciole retains Depression-era charms in some restaurants, home kitchens

Like the best Italian mothers, Rose Savalino Uddeme spent a lot of time cooking for her kids when the family lived off the corner of Central and Eastern avenues on the edge of Little Italy in the 1960s. One of her go-to meals was a staple of hard times: an egg cracked into simmering tomato sauce thick with peas. "It was one of those growing-up meals," said Uddeme, 75, who waited tables in Little Italy and Highlandtown before retiring to Essex. "It was cheap." A less frequent dish, something special when there was a little extra money in the grocery purse, was braciole. Pronounced "brah-zchul" in Sicilian dialect and "brah-shole" by...

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