NV Domaine Spiropoulos Brut "Ode Panos" Mantinia: A sparkling moschofilero, charmat method; like liquid apricot pit reined with acidity. $21
Disabuse yourself of the knee-jerk that all muscat is sweet. Greece makes those, yes, but some of its better muscat is dry and oh-so-lovely.
2011 UWC Samos Muscat "High Peaks" Samos: OK, Gewurztraminer, step aside for a minute so that this dry and effulgently aromatic off-white can grip me by the nose. $15
Like moschofilero, a pink-skinned grape making white wine, and nearly as aromatic; scented and flavored like the Chilean fruit cherimoya (nicknamed "custard apple" and there you have what the wine's like too). Softly acidic; very refreshing. A fine example, which ratchets up the ripe apple notes with some added peachlike viognier, is the 2011 Mercouri Estate Roditis "Foloi" Peloponnese for $17-$20.
Saved from the brink of extinction, this super-delicious white grape now thrives on the island of Crete. You might get full-on lime and lemon in low-alcohol versions; peach and apricot in those around 13 percent. Neither scrimps on acidity. Rare, but worth a search. Two standouts are the 2012 Alexakis Vidiano Crete at $13-$17 and the 2011 Domaine Douloufakis Vidiano "Dafnios" Crete ($13-$15), notable for its aromas of green apple, lime and wet chalk.
If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price.
Bill St John has been writing and teaching about wine for more than 40 years.