Spike Gjerde

Woodberry Kitchen wows with new energy

Woodberry Kitchen wows with new energy

I hadn’t planned it this way, but I recently found myself perched in the exact same spot at Woodberry Kitchen where I sat when it opened 10 years ago.

And just like that day, ensconced in the upper balcony, I had a fantastic meal. In 2007, chef-owner Spike Gjerde was just beginning his mission to serve local, seasonal products, going on to win a James Beard Award for his efforts in 2015.

In many ways, he’s put Baltimore on the national restaurant map. But over the years, the stunning, refurbished foundry in the Woodberry neighborhood hasn’t always been consistent. I’ve had ups and downs with the food and service, feeling at times like I’d been betrayed by a once-promising...