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Cheese mongering gets serious

Cheese mongering gets serious

When Kasimir Bujak cuts into a wheel of Harbison and uses a spoon to scoop some of the soft cheese on to a cracker, he lets out a little sigh of appreciation.

"You can't get anything this good in Europe. It's an American original," says Bujak, a Certified Cheese Professional and cheesemonger at Whole Foods Market in Harbor East. "The rind is a spruce bark, which is a traditional Swiss and German thing, and the bark flavors the cheese itself."

Harbison, which is made at Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont, is one of Bujak's favorites — he loves its soft texture and complex, woodsy flavor — though it is just one of many cheeses he loves. At work at...