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The Aviary
Why restaurant critic Phil Vettel broke anonymity to review Beran's and Achatz' "Next"
Why restaurant critic Phil Vettel broke anonymity to review Beran's and Achatz' "Next"

Next is, without doubt, a unique restaurant. And it requires, for better and for worse, a unique approach to review. Because Next changes its concept every 13 weeks or so (exception: the El Bulli menu, which launched two weeks ago, continues through May), a critic must secure a table very early in each menu’s cycle, so that the subsequent review still has relevance. And because the menu remains the same within the cycle, repeat visits — in every other instance an absolute necessity for a fair evaluation — merely serve to delay the process. And so, unlike every other restaurant I’ve reviewed, my evaluations of Next will be based on a single visit. This year, Next...

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