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Paula Deen

Dining

Dining

Once upon a time, local food in Baltimore meant sauerkraut and Berger cookies, pit beef and crabs slathered in Old Bay. Today, it still means all that, but also fermented radishes and pigs that spend their lives foraging for acorns in the woods. As each new restaurant flicks on the filament lights over the bar, where a bewhiskered bartender mixes a cocktail in a mason jar with herbs grown on the roof, we may be tempted to yawn. But don’t. The pioneers in the local food movement are still going strong, and the standards they set remain fixed. Baltimore is dancing at the edge of the national spotlight for its inventive, quirky, and often bootstrap cuisine. The listings here are...

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