Changing makeup looks for fall
Hairstylist Sally Hershberger and makeup artists Victor Cembellin and Taylor Babaian offer tips.
Actress Kristen Stewart epitomizes the downtown/edgy look for fall. (Andrew H. Walker / Getty Images / October 17, 2010)
All are among the faces of fall. And with some tips from the pros, the looks are easy to achieve. Celebrity hairstylist Sally Hershberger; MAC Cosmetics senior pro makeup artist Victor Cembellin; and celebrity makeup artist Taylor Babaian, author of the books "Style Eyes" and "Asian Faces: The Essential Beauty and Makeup Guide for Asian Women," share their advice.
Photo gallery of this fall's hottest makeup trends
'Mad Men' ladylike
Looks like: January Jones as Betty Draper; Christina Hendricks as Joan Holloway; Beyoncé as Deena Jones in "Dreamgirls;" Audrey Hepburn in "Breakfast at Tiffany's."
Key elements: Coiffed, often big hair; strong, groomed brows; cat eyeliner; matte lips, sometimes in a bold color; occasional updos a la bouffant bun; natural or pink nails.
Expert tip: Hershberger's take on an updated "Mad Men" look, with hair worn down: "Prep hair with a lightweight mousse/primer [such as Sally Hershberger Shagg Style Primer, $12.50] to build up volume without stickiness. Blow out with a round brush and then put the hair in hot rollers — it's really easy to do: Put three rollers on the top of the crown of the head, then one on each side behind the back of the ear, roll it down and then roll the back under. It doesn't have to be perfect. Take out the rollers, then tease the root, spray with hairspray and [let] dry. It's insane. You get the most voluminous hair you can imagine … really ladylike and pretty."
Looks like: Kristen Stewart, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Taylor Momsen from "Gossip Girl," Courtney Love.
Key elements: Moody eye shadow, a smoky eye in black, plum or even neutral shades; bedhead messy hair; dark goth lips.
Expert tip: "Go to any drugstore and get claw/butterfly hair clips," Hershberger says. "Twirl hair with two fingers in the exact same pattern as I mentioned for the 'Mad Men' look — you only need seven of them. Again, it doesn't have to be wrapped perfectly. Do this when hair is 99% dry. Afterward, take out clips and spray on my mineral beach spray or wave spray for shine without it being greasy — it's way better than a curling iron."
Looks like: Bianca Jagger, Beyoncé, Sofia Vergara, Giselle, Angelina Jolie, Brigitte Bardot, Helen Mirren.
Key elements: Big, sexy, often wavy hair; hair that's half-up/half-down; luxe lashes; polished nails, sometimes red; glossy red lips; smoky eyes.
Expert tip: For years, this look was completed with a Jennifer Lopez neutral glossy lip. But this season for all-out glamour, think red. Cembellin says not only does the simple flick of a lip liner (or a pointy bow to the lip or a rounder bow on the top of the lip) change a red lip's impression, but different red shades have different personalities. A pink red could be sporty; a purply dark red, vampish. Even darker could be considered goth. A matte cherry or brick red can be "Mad Men" retro classic. "But when you add a gloss or a varnish to that same lipstick, it transforms from 1950s/'60s "to a 1980s Robert Palmer girl," says Cembellin, referring to the sleek look of the women in the singer's "Simply Irresistible" and "Addicted to Love" videos. "I think we all associate glossy lips with a really sexy lip and it instantly has that suggestion of naughtiness to the girl."
Looks like: Jennifer Aniston, Halle Berry, Reese Witherspoon, the models in the new Burberry Beauty ads.
Key elements: Minimal, come-hither eye makeup; primed skin; tinted foundation; great skin; nude or almost nude lips.
Expert tip: Cembellin calls the skin that works best with this trend "Cashmink" — skin with a luxe, warm finish. It's about contouring, highlighting your face's structure and recognizing that the skin is an actual feature. "Imagine when a woman is sitting in candlelight at a romantic dinner. It's like the candlelight hits these perfect cheekbones that we didn't know we had," Cembellin says. "She's sultry. She's sexy. But she looks effortless." Keep products neutral and honey-toned. Don't overload with eye shadow, mascara, heavy lipstick or topical glitter. "It's basically the new 2010-going-into-2011 sort of version of natural," says Cembellin, who recommends MAC Strobe Cream ($29.50) for glow. "It's this sort of surreal attention to detailed focus on the skin.... Our chief makeup artist says it's like a bunch of products to make it look like you have absolutely nothing on your skin."
Looks like: Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Kesha, Amber Rose, Janelle Monae.
Key elements: Curly mohawk/faux hawk; shaved head; artistic makeup; a new take on graphic eyeliner; bold, sometimes Crayola-bright, hair color; futuristic ponytail; bright eye makeup; statement nails.
Expert tip: "Eyeliner is back but in a new sort of artistry approach," Cembellin says. "If you think of your Lady Gagas and your Rihannas of the world, it's almost like everyone's looking for a way to take classic beauty statements and modernize them or to make them unique, funky, artistic and futuristic: double liner, ribbony thin liner, ink blot liner and all kind of new shapes." You can also be adventurous with a fun, bold eye shadow. An easy way to achieve a double-lined look is to line the top lash line with a thicker bright eye shadow such as an electric blue, then at the lash line go over that with a thinner eyeliner (such as MAC Superslick Liquid Eye Liner $17.50), perhaps in black.
Alternatively, Babaian recommends simply using liner (black, eggplant or navy, for instance) on the upper lid via liquid liner, pencil or, for a more modern look, crème eyeliner. Always flick the line up at the end to avoid a droopy-eyed look. In addition to the upper liner, you can line the bottom lash line, perhaps in teal, as well. "But for an edgy look, don't connect the top and bottom lines together," Babaian says. "If you extend either line past the edge of the eyebrow, it looks more punk."