PARIS — Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli showed their spring 2014 collection Tuesday afternoon at Paris Fashion Week.

The inspiration: "A journey amidst elements borrowed from imaginary ethnic groups," according to the show notes, along with a theatricality informed by a recent visit by the designers to the Rome Opera workshops.

The look: Regal bohemian, with an emphasis on lush textiles and embroidery.

Key pieces; Tapestry-like jackets over pleated, embroidered lace evening dresses. Suede fringe cape and mini dress. Playful pants pleated below the knee. Crisp white shirts with cape-backs. Fringe handbags. Flat sandals with gold scarab details. Studded leather headbands. Matte gold, wax cast jewelry.

The verdict: That rare and lovely combination of opulence and earthiness. And how refreshing that there weren't any obvious references.