PARIS -- Chitose Abe showed a stellar spring collection for her Sacai label on Monday at Paris Fashion Week.

The look: Sporty and sweet, with a vivid color palette and lots of perforated fabrics that seemed to be informed by performance sportswear. Abe continued her signature experiment with architectural shapes, and several pieces were puffed with volume in the back, as if the models were wearing backpacks.

Key pieces: Coral-pink eyelet sway back dress with kangaroo front pockets and pleated skirt. Crisp, side-slit, wide-leg drawstring track pants, in subtle menswear plaids. Airy shirt dresses with color-block mesh insets, petal cut-outs or ruffle details. Windbreakers with trapeze volumes, long-line tunics with high ruffle collars, worn over breezy, floral maxiskirts. Referee whistle necklaces and Velcro platform sandals added to the athletic vibe.

The verdict: Wonderfully clever. Each piece was special and interesting.

Abe took the retro '90s sport vibe that's currently percolating up from the street and made it her own. (Plenty of fashionistas here are not wearing stilettos, but instead brightly colored Nike running shoes with their skirts and dresses.) I'm looking forward to her upcoming visit to Los Angeles with Barneys New York

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