Ambience: It's a big boisterous restaurant in what was once a Bennigan's. While the place was gutted and redone in warm shades of blond and orange, I wish the dining room was more open. Instead, cubicle-height dividers block table-to-table views. On the other hand, those coffee shop-style dividers give everyone their own intimate space to dine.
Starters: Grilled Jamaican wings ($10.99) aren't exactly authentically seasoned, but I love that whole wings —instead of flats and drummettes — are served. Crispy battered calamari ($10.99) comes with three sauces: predictable marinara, the less likely garlic aioli and a wonderful basil pesto. Ahi tuna appetizer ($13.99) combines seared Cajun-crusted tuna with Cajun mayo for dipping, pickled cucumber and soba peanut-noodle salad. Bam Bam shrimp ($12.99) is more sweet than spicy, but I loved the addition of chopped peanuts.
Entree excellence: Chopped salad ($11.99) is a light but satisfying way to go here. The ingredient list is long, but it's made with just the right amounts of everything: Romaine, apples, tomato, avocado, roasted corn, bacon, blue cheese, lime-marinated chicken and balsamic vinaigrette. Roasted half chicken ($14.99) is moist and flavored with herbs, garlic and lemon. It comes with a homey pile of Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. Steaks were disappointing despite their prominence on the menu. Both a special 20-ounce rib eye ($29.99) and Hawaiian rib eye ($25.99), marinated in soy and pineapple, lacked the exterior char I look for in well-cooked steaks. While these 28-day aged certified Angus steaks were tender and had good flavor, it was almost as if they'd been braised. Pasta dishes run from simple five cheese penne ($10.99) to a busy Heavenly shrimp spaghettini ($15.99) with white wine, garlic, lemon, tomatoes, oregano, basil and marinara. There were several seafood choices and specials, but none of the fish was from Florida waters.
Side issues: On a recent night, diners could add a very good crab cake for $6.99. While it wasn't the meatiest crab cake, it had a home-made quality that was hard to resist. Side dishes range from the excellent sweet potato fries to not-overcooked carrots and sweet plantains. The staff welcomes switching sides for any particular entree.
Sweet!: Coconut cream pie ($7.99) was the standout sweet, although you can't miss with the carrot cake ($6.99). Key lime pie ($5.99) wasn't to my liking. I prefer mine more tart than sugary.
Service: Friendly and attentive. Servers seem to cooperate, especially when it comes time to get everyone's entree to the table at the same time.
Liquid assets: Since reservations aren't accepted, you'll inevitably wait in the bar where service is outstanding and bartenders never want to see an empty glass.
email@example.com or 954-356-4632. Read his blog at SunSentinel.com/sup and follow him on Twitter at @FloridaEats.