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Robert Rodriguez
Bar review: 15 years in, Holy Frijoles is sly, vivacious
Bar review: 15 years in, Holy Frijoles is sly, vivacious

After a bar has been around for a while, it's easy to take it for granted. This year, three Baltimore bars that have been in business for over a decade marked major anniversaries: Brewer's Art turned 15 and Max's 25. These two bars are hardly taken for granted; they are universally praised by wildly different constituencies. The third, though, which turned 15 in September, doesn't get nearly enough love. Holy Frijoles deserves recognition. It has excellent, under-rated cocktails — the margaritas are poured by the dozen — and a menu that is stuffed with guilty pleasures. And, as it's always been clear to me, including when I visited last week, it has...

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