In the early scenes of "The Founder," before the bland-ifying forces of franchising take over the world, the shots of the delectable burger patties sizzling on the grill at the original McDonald's restaurant in San Bernardino, Calif., look good enough to eat. I state the obvious intent here. In no culinary way do they resemble the burgers we associate with McDonald's today. They're big, for one thing, more Five Guys than Golden Arches. They're emblems, photographed lovingly, of the Way Things Used To Be.
McDonald's today is a lot of things to a lot of people; an omnipresent symbol of global fast-food sameness is one of those things.