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C'est la Vie?
The fact that chef Paul Virant and I share the same monogram shouldn't confuse anybody, although years back the chef sent me a letter he received from some luckless job applicant who, instead of writing "Paul Virant" in the salutation, used my name...Tags: Perennial Virant, Restaurants, Chicago Tribune Columnists, Dining and Drinking, Phil Vettel
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Feeding memories
This time, Next is selling memories. "Childhood," the latest menu from Next, Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas' shape-shifting restaurant, is a Proustian food journey that, although based on Achatz's and executive chef Dave Beran's childhoods, is designed...Tags: Restaurants, Foods and Beverages, Soups, Chicago Tribune Columnists, Phil Vettel
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Four stars for Charlie Trotter's
Two weeks ago, Charlie Trotter began his 25th year of business, a superlative achievement by any reckoning. He has won every culinary award worth pursuing, his restaurant continues to hum with business, and he's more or less a newlywed, having married...Tags: Restaurants, Charlie Trotter's, Charlie Trotter, Grant Achatz, Restaurant and Catering Industry
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Soaring on the South Side
When I heard that Acadia, a high-end restaurant, was opening in the South Loop, I sighed. A dining neighborhood that once looked like the second coming of Randolph Street — when Opera, Saiko, Cuatro and Room 21 were doing brisk business —...Tags: Potatoes, Butter, Restaurants, Dining and Drinking, Pies and Tarts
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Celebrating the tastes of Japanese street food
Matthias Merges worked at Charlie Trotter's for 14-odd years, and he was the man for most of them, serving as chef de cuisine, corporate chef and finally director of operations. "He was the glue to that place," one restaurateur says, admiringly.
That...Tags: Restaurants, Charlie Trotter's, Mushrooms, Grant Achatz, Peanuts
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Country cousin far from simplistic
When word went out that Jason Paskewitz and Ryan O'Donnell were planning Rustic House, a sequel to their successful first venture, the sophisticated Gemini Bistro, I figured the pair wanted a simpler follow-up restaurant, something that would let them...Tags: Appetizers, Alcoholic Beverages, Restaurants, Foods and Beverages, Bars and Clubs
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Make a dash for it
Every time I figure that Logan Square is done with its boom of independent, unpretentious, quirkily personable restaurants, boom, another one pops up. If I were any other dining neighborhood in the city, I'd be developing a severe case of Logan Envy right...Tags: Alcoholic Beverages, Rhubarb, Bars and Clubs, Wines, Restaurants
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From Paris to sizzling Bangkok
Next, the shape-shifting restaurant by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas (the principals at world-famous Alinea), dazzled diners with its inaugural "Paris 1906" menu. For an encore, the kitchen went about as far afield as possible. To Bangkok, in fact.
"We...Tags: International Travel, Restaurants, Foods and Beverages, Mangos, Soups
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Tourondel menu has complex surprises
Funny how a simple gesture, a little grace note, can render a dining experience memorable. For instance, I would send people to BLT American Brasserie just for the popovers.
Maybe it's because bread at restaurant tables these days is often missing, or...Tags: Meatballs, Restaurants, Souffle, Dining and Drinking, Chocolate Cake
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Bar Toma: Italian fare inspires dreams of summertime dining
Tony Mantuano is on a roll. A local politician who flies on Air Force One these days calls him "my favorite chef." He's in the running — again — for the James Beard Foundation's Outstanding Chef award. His executive chef at Spiaggia, Sarah...Tags: Tony Mantuano, Foods and Beverages, Bars and Clubs, Restaurants, Cheese Corn
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Guy and the goose
I'm not awarding four stars to Goosefoot, the splendid new restaurant by former Les Nomades chef Chris Nugent. But I suspect it's just a matter of time — and not a lot of time — before I do.
Goosefoot opened in mid-December with the plug-and-...Tags: Wines, Restaurants, Chicago Tribune Columnists, Dining and Drinking, Phil Vettel
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Simply glamorous
Chicagoans have been enjoying a mini-boom of Spanish flavors of late. First there was Vera, which opened late last year in the Market District, and now Tavernita, which has been packing them in since its January opening in River North.
And what a...Tags: Restaurants, Bars and Clubs, Almonds, Soups, Onions
Nov 3, 2011
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Dec 1, 2011
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Sep 8, 2011
|Story| Chicago Tribune
Feb 9, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Mar 1, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Sep 1, 2011
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Oct 13, 2011
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Aug 25, 2011
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Jan 19, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Mar 8, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Apr 19, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
Mar 29, 2012
|Column| Chicago Tribune
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