Cathay Pacific Airways Ltd.

What was the last memorable meal you had on an airplane?

Struggling for an answer? Me too.

That is why American Airlines' recent announcement that it is working on in-flight meals with two notable chefs, Richard Sandoval and Marcus Samuelsson, seemed so surprising and quaint all at once. Airlines still care about food?

I can't recall the last time I had any meal on a domestic flight, or the last time overseas food was more interesting than high school cafeteria fare.

But American's announcement — Sandoval's items will be served in American's business and first class cabins on flights between the U.S. and Europe, Asia and Latin America; and Samuelsson's will be...