David Simon

Remembering Anthony Bourdain and his rocky relationship with Baltimore

Remembering Anthony Bourdain and his rocky relationship with Baltimore

Anthony Bourdain, the writer, chef and TV personality who died Friday, first encountered Baltimore during the fall of 1983.

He was an outsider charged with leading Gianni’s Italian restaurant in the brand new Harborplace. The previous chef had split, and Tony, as he was called, came in with expectations as high as the New York skyscrapers he had just left, according to Nancy Longo, who worked with him briefly during the time.

Longo, then 21, was a culinary student excited to land a job as a line cook at Gianni’s. But she didn’t stay long — the kitchen was...

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