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Three lovely French rosés to drink with summer's le grand aioli

Three lovely French rosés to drink with summer's le grand aioli

The Italians have pinzimonio, raw vegetables — baby artichokes, peppers, fennel, radishes — to dip in peppery extra-virgin olive oil with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. But the French go one better with summer's aioli. That's the name for both the garlicky, egg-rich mayonnaise and an entire feast — le grand aioli — of raw and cooked vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, and cod or other seafood dipped in that glorious deep gold mayonnaise. The way the French do it, the aioli is slightly runny, the egg yolks and crushed garlic barely held together with the olive oil. Russ Parsons knows exactly how to make a proper one.

On a summer...

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