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James Beard
Restaurant Review: Wit & Wisdom has its highs and lows
Restaurant Review: Wit & Wisdom has its highs and lows

Wit & Wisdom, the promising restaurant in the new Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore, calls itself a tavern. That it's not recognizably a tavern is what makes Wit & Wisdom, early on, both interesting and frustrating. Riding a wave of publicity and excitement, it opened last month in the waterfront hotel in the posher-by-the-second Harbor East neighborhood. The product of an experienced restaurant group, Wit & Wisdom — its formal name is Wit & Wisdom, a Tavern by Michael Mina — is still in its awkward phase after a month of operation. Executive chef Benjamin Lambert's best ideas about American dining are undermined by others that feel extraneous....

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