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Tender is the brisket

Reyna Simnegar's Persian father-in-law flatly refuses to use a knife along with his fork when eating meat. It's a fork and spoon when one is dining in the Persian style, so that meat had better be tender, reports the author of the new Sephardic kosher cookbook, "Persian Food from the Non-Persian Bride" (Feldheim, $34.99). Meat so tender you could almost eat it with a spoon is one of the hallmarks of a good beef brisket, star of many a Seder table come Passover, which begins at sundown April 18."It is so tender because it's kosher meat," Simnegar says of her brisket. Koshered meat is salted before cooking to draw out blood from the flesh. "When meat...

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