Battle in Buenos Aires
Crosstown rivals meet today in 180th Superclasico match
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BUENOS AIRES, Argentina - They are a soccer-crazed nation's most ardent fans.
Trumpets blare and drums pound out a warlike beat as shirtless supporters set off showers of blue and gold fireworks when South America's most famous team - Boca Juniors - takes the field.
"Boca is about passion," lifelong fan Cesar Fabiano said. "You can get divorced, change your religion or change your friends, but you can never change the team jersey."
During a recent game against Venezuelan team Maracaibo, Boca boosters fired so many flares that blue smoke choked the field at "La Bombonera." The team's notoriously intimidating stadium thundered, and star forwards Martin Palermo and Rodrigo Palacio dominated Maracaibo's hapless defense in a 3-0 victory.
But there is nothing like a showdown with arch rival River Plate to bring out the passion of Boca fans. Today's 180th Superclasico showcases Argentina's most famous teams in a drama that weaves pageantry and athleticism into one of South America's greatest soccer events.
"The spectacle is fantastic, magnificent," said Fabiano, who has attended games in 64 of his 68 years.
The emotions, the shouts and the insults at rival teams are all magnified in the close confines of "La Bombonera" - Spanish for "The Chocolate Box" - where 55,000 fans pack the stands.
River is the red-and-white clad foe from just across Buenos Aires and Boca is the Everyman's team in blue and gold that boasts fans from as far off as Japan. Boca leads the Superclasico rivalry with 65 victories to 59 for River, with 55 draws, since 1931.
For as long as it takes to play, there is no letup for the fans, who cheer themselves hoarse.
"The Boca fans cheer for 90 minutes straight," said Antonio Obrador, who has massaged the feet of Boca stars since 1969, including legend Diego Maradona. "The fans don't stop singing, playing trumpets and banging drums."
The awe-inspiring atmosphere at La Bombonera makes it a mecca for soccer pilgrims.
"It's very intense, almost like a pressure cooker," said Cynthia Neves, 21, from Brazil.
Many tourists who visit Boca's stadium leave believing that Argentines worship at an altar of blue and gold. In actuality, about four of every 10 Argentines root for Boca, and three out of 10 are River Plate fans, according to a March 2006 study by polling group Equis.
Followers in Europe and Asia flock to a museum that documents the rabid Boca fan behavior. Its name: The Passion of Boca Juniors Museum.
"You either have the Boca passion or you don't," museum guide Daniela Garcia said, showing off Boca rosary beads.
Marcos Cazon lives just blocks from Boca's stadium and received an autographed T-shirt from Palermo. Family friend Mirta Franco smiled as she photographed the 10-year-old's big moment. Franco whispered quietly that she is a River fan and teased Marcos to switch teams.
"I'll buy you a new bike if you switch sides," she joked.
But the boy couldn't be swayed. "I'd do it just for the bike, but my heart would still be with Boca," he said.
Copyright © 2008, The Baltimore Sun
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