She is 96 years old, all bones and little skin. Her ribs are split and rotted in places and stained by rust. Nonetheless, she is a slightly fearsome presence, commanding her surroundings like a T. rex in a natural history museum.
When the Shawnee first hit the water in 1916, she was a striking beauty — a 72-foot sailboat made of old-growth oak and Douglas fir, African mahogany, naturally curved hackmatack and gleaming teak. Her hull had the seductive curve of a wineglass. Her keel was 37,000 pounds of lead capped by a single slab of carved oak stretching stem to stern.
Now the Shawnee sits partially dismantled in Newport Beach, where master shipwright Dennis Holland is working to restore the boat to her original glory. It's a project six years in the making, with no end in sight.
"I'm a slave to her," says Holland, 66.
Some of his neighbors feel they are too.
That's because the Shawnee is dry docked in Holland's side yard, between his home and a workshop, its bow jutting out toward the street, its stern overlooking a neighbor's pool. It's a fantastic hallucination in this tidy, affluent neighborhood.
Holland has walked this gangplank before. In 1970, he began work on an exact replica of a 118-foot-long Revolutionary War sailing vessel in his yard in Costa Mesa, not far from where he lives today.
Building the Pilgrim of Newport was an epic undertaking. Holland was 24 when he started, 37 when he finished. His wife, Betty, had three girls in the time it took him to birth the boat. The family rented out their home and lived aboard the boat for seven of those years, cooking on a wood stove and using oil lamps for light. Holland made custom furniture and cabinets to support his family and his passion.
The Pilgrim turned Holland into a local celebrity. When it was launched in Newport Harbor, 2,500 onlookers cheered the quixotic artist and his masterpiece.
If only restoring the Shawnee were that simple.
Dennis Holland was 8 when he first glimpsed the Shawnee. It was 1953, and her picture was in a yachting magazine he found in an alley in San Francisco, where his family lived. She happened to be docked at a local yacht club, and Holland's parents took him down to see.
"It was love at first sight," he says.
Holland's parents had recently bought him an 8-foot wooden sailboat. The majestic Shawnee stoked his budding interest in boats. Her story fanned the flames.
The Shawnee was commissioned as a honeymoon yacht by a San Francisco banking executive and built by George Lawley & Son in Boston, among the nation's most prominent shipyards. The Lawleys built everything from opulent yachts and Navy warships to defenders of the America's Cup race.
The Shawnee, Holland learned, had placed third in the 1925 Transpacific Race from San Francisco to Tahiti — covering 3,687 nautical miles in 28 days, 9 hours and 29 minutes. During World War II, she was enlisted to patrol the California coast.
The graceful lines of the tall ships that lined San Francisco's waterfront in those days captivated Holland. They were more than boats, he thought. They were works of art. When he was 10, he took on his first project — an 18-foot Malibu outrigger, a popular backyard project of the time that could be launched from the surf. It took two years to complete.
The family moved to Long Beach. After high school, Holland began a six-year apprenticeship at a Newport Beach shipyard that no longer exists.
"Most of the guys were over 50 and they said to me: 'You're wasting your time. It's a dying business,' " Holland said.
When the oldtimers retired, Holland asked if he could keep their tools — specialized chisels, saws, planes and mallets. He still uses them.
"I could have done a lot better in life building houses," said Holland, whose grandfather worked as a Mississippi River boat pilot. "But wooden boats have this romance thing going on.... And when it hits the water, it comes alive."