My plan was to wake up at 4 a.m. and meet the guys on the North Col. However, a stomach bug rocketed me from the tent at 2 a.m. In that state there was no way I could climb. This ended up being a blessing.
Around midnight it started to snow and 15 hours later, it is still snowing. This mild snow storm has dropped a foot or more of snow at the North Col. The snow blanketed the enthusiasm of three of the four climbers. After spending two nights trapped at Camp 2 last week, just about any bad weather at this stage proved overwhelming.
While we counseled patience, Keiron and Ivan packed up and headed for home. Tony and Daniel tested the conditions on the North Ridge and correctly decided to return to the tents at Camp 1. Shortly afterwards, Daniel packed it in as well.
As the retreating climbers headed down, Andy headed up to Camp 1. The snow was soft and the tracks of small slides were every where. He and Tony Kelly will be spending the night at Camp 1.
While I laid in my sleeping bag, tossing back antibiotics, this drama unfolded. I was grateful to miss it all: the climb in the storm, the sad realization that the team was rapidly eroding and the uncomfortability of spending a night at Camp 1 while all my gear is stashed at Camp 2.
Well we are far from done on Everest. Tony Kelly still wants to push on. In addition we have four fully stocked camps on the mountain. We will definitely be making a summit attempt, either on June 1 or 2. I'll be heading up to Camp 2 early tomorrow.
At this stage in the expedition, things are happening quite rapidly. While the climbers were assessing their chances, Russell was trying to solve a different kind of dilemma.
There are about six expeditions left on the hill. Three of these are packing up to return to base camp. Well, the route down is now nearly blocked off by a glacial lake that keeps growing and growing. In the last week, we've been able to carve paths around the rising water.
This morning the lake rose so fast that it was impossible to traverse around the steep, loose sides. A few yaks and yak men were able to wade across at one spot, soaking all of the Spaniards' gear. But as the waters rose, this ford became 60 feet wide and nearly 20 feet deep. At least two expeditions are trapped at ABC. Our best hope is that the dam of ice and gravel bursts by the time we need to leave. However, with acres of water trapped behind the damn, its destruction could be deadly. Anyone caught in that flash flood's path would certainly be swept away.
A few more interesting things: The yak men and Everest veterans are calling this the coldest and highest precipitation season they've ever seen. The Japanese clean up expedition was among the first to leave, marking their accomplishment by leaving sacks of garbage on the North Col. Ironic, eh?
Well, we are in need of some sunny days.
