— This capital city is like all other capital cities: It is about power and reach.
In this one, it's done over tea. Small glasses of tea. The foam cups offered in America would be considered barbaric.
There are 550 members of Parliament, and each has a staff of three, and if you add the other government staff and all the guests, and six or seven meetings a day, it comes to thousands upon thousands of glasses of tea.
"Sixty thousand glasses a week, at least," estimated one staffer with a smile. "It sounds odd, but it's true."
While swilling tea in the Turkish Parliament the other day, two things stood out:
The rage of rural Kurdish villagers who came to testify about their husbands, fathers and children, all victims of a botched Turkish air raid in December. It turned out they weren't Kurdish terrorists after all, merely smugglers coming home from a day of trading in Iraq, and 34 of them were destroyed by bombs in an attack that the government is still investigating without success.
And then there was the absolute icy control offered on a variety of issues — including Israel's ruined relationship with this moderate Islamic democracy — by Minister of European Affairs Egemen Bagis.
Bagis, who represents cosmopolitan Istanbul, is a secular politician who describes himself as not particularly religious.
But he is Turkish, and as soon as he entered the room, a waiter came in and set a glass of tea before me. It was time to talk politics. He wanted to talk about Israel.
"The one thing that Chicago Tribune readers need to know is that the Turkish government has nothing against Israel's right to exist. We have nothing against Israeli people. And we have nothing but affection for Jewish people around the world."
But he does have a problem with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu.
"Our problem is with the Netanyahu mentality which would not even apologize for killing nine innocent individuals in international waters."
The nine were killed in May 2010 while participating in a flotilla in the Mediterranean Sea that was trying to break the Israeli blockade of Gaza. Israel insists it was trying to protect its sovereign obligations, and Bagis insists that the nine civilians were executed.
"Yes, executed," Bagis said.
Israeli officials recall it differently, insisting that their commandos were attacked while boarding the ship and were defending themselves.
After the deadly incident, Israel wouldn't budge and neither would Turkey. But while the formal, public diplomatic relationship is nonexistent, business between the two nations continues.
And Turkey continues to demand a public Israeli apology, compensation for the victims and an end to the blockade of Gaza.
Tea, politics and tears mix in Turkey's capital
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