Fish dealers and chefs say the toughest fish to filet is shad. Andy Foehrkolb, an experienced cutter for Reliant Fish Co. in the wholesale seafood market in Jessup, is said to be one of the best around, using a long, sharp, thin blade to make 32 cuts per fillet during shad season. With the appetite for the migratory fish now largely limited to an older clientele, Foehrkolb is one of the last cutters at Jessup up to the challenge of filleting the bony shad for the winter-spring market. Chef Michel Tersiguel, of Tersiguel’s French Country Restaurant in Ellicott City, believes Foehrkolb might be the best shad filleter in the world. Hear more about the early-morning seafood operations at Jessup in Episode 362 of the Roughly Speaking podcast.