Desert Cafe owner Blake Wollman has seen his Mount Washington restaurant struggle to draw customers in recent years, while his hummus company, The Wild Pea, is in dozens of mid-Atlantic stores and spreading. (Jon Sham/Baltimore Sun Video)

By all accounts, including Blake Wollman's, the Mount Washington Village retail and restaurant district is doing well.

Wollman, former president of the Mount Washington Village Merchants Association and longtime owner of the Desert Cafe, has watched as the nearby Ethel and Ramone's restaurant has spent $500,000 on renovations and is set to reopen soon as Ethel's Creole Kitchen.

Wollman has watched as Mount Washington Tavern, which burned in a fire, was rebuilt and reclaimed its stake as an anchor of the Village. He knows the new Nickel Taphouse restaurant is off to a good start, enjoying waiting lists, and drawing foot traffic to other businesses.

Yet Wollman said his own 13-year-old, Mediterranean-style restaurant isn't benefitting from the overall health of the Village.

On the bright side, Wollman also has a separate hummus business, Randallstown-based Wild Pea Hummous, which he said is thriving, with customers like Wegmans, MOM's Organic Markets, Whole Foods and the Graul's and Eddie's of Roland Park markets, as well as area farmers' markets, including the 32nd Street Farmers Market in Waverly.

But in Mount Washington, business at the Desert Cafe has slumped 24 percent since 2007, Wollman said.

"It's not like we're going out of business tomorrow. It's my baby," he said, sitting at a table in the cafe on Sulgrave Avenue on a day when there was hardly any lunch crowd.

He said he still loves being located in Mount Washington Village, a small but vibrant shopping district that is known for its destination boutique stores and varied restaurants. He describes it as "very hip and New Yorky" and he agrees it is thriving.

He just wishes he could put his finger on what the problem is at his cafe.

"I really don't know," he said, although he suspects it may have something to do with his focus on his hummus business.

Even Mustapha Snoussi, owner of Crepe du Jour, who has complained in the past of slow business and parking problems in the Village, now says he is doing well, too.

Snoussi, a contemporary of Wollman who has owned Crepe du Jour for 14 years, said he has advised Wollman to focus on the Desert Cafe more and to invest in upgrading it, as other local businesses are doing.

But Wollman shook his head when asked about the renovations at Ethel's Creole Kitchen.

"I wouldn't do it," he said.

'Wild' ride

It's an unsettling time for a restaurateur who once had settled into a groove as president of the merchants' association and owner of The Desert Cafe, a BYOB eatery that he opened at age 23.

He met his wife, Laurie, at a block party that he organized in Mount Washington Village. He got a 3 1/2-star review in The Sun in 2007. He felt good about the restaurant and his leadership role in the business community.

"I was Mr. Mount Washington. It was my village," said Wollman, now 36, a father of two, who lives in the nearby Greenspring East neighborhood.

When the recession hit in 2007, "everyone took a fall" in the Village, Wollman said. He branched out into the hummus business and started selling his homemade Wild Pea Hummous at area farmers' markets, adding an 'o' to the word hummus because, "I wanted it to be a little wild and different."

As Mount Washington Village bounced back from bad economic times, Wollman, who had run the cafe by himself for its first 10 years, decided in 2011 to focus more on Wild Pea and hired a general manager, Rajesh Raut, to run the cafe, on the theory that "it can run itself, with me overseeing it."