The native pearl in that Asian oyster study
While spending four years and $17 million studying whether it would be a good idea to try Asian oysters in the Chesapeake Bay, it seems researchers discovered newfound promise in the sick old native oyster.
The massive draft Environmental Impact Statement weighing the pros and cons of various oyster restoration strategies in the bay makes no recommendation, as I reported today in The Baltimore Sun . Whether trying to repopulate the bay with the Asian imports, or letting private oyster growers use sterile Asian shellfish, it's impossible to say for sure whether either effort would succeed, or cause more problems, the study concluded.
Asian oysters - originally from the seas off China and Japan - apparently can fend off the two diseases that have decimated the native bivalves. But scientists and environmentalists worry that the imports might crowd out what's left of the natives, and cause more, as yet unknown, ecological trouble. Some have suggested putting sterile Asian oysters in the bay instead to alleviate that threat. Seafood dealers would like that, because they grow really fast and big. But there's still a risk they'll wriggle out of their chemical chastity belt after a while and hook up in the murky waters of the Chesapeake.
Perplexing as all that is, researchers seem to agree they found one truly encouraging thing. Sterile native oysters also grow a lot faster - fast enough to beat the diseases that normally kill them.
Tommy Leggett, a Virginian who raises his own oysters on the side, got a chance to try both types of sterile oysters. Of the natives, he says that by keeping them in floating racks near the water's surface, he could get them large enough to sell to restaurants within 12 months. Others grown on the bottom got big enough to eat in about 18 months, still before the diseases would take their toll.
"I think we have a native alternative to the non-native oyster," says Leggett, whose day job is with the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. "There's no risk, they don't need a permit. There's no possibility of introducing something (bad), because it's our native oyster."
The debate over Asian oysters is likely to drag on for at least a few more months. For more background on it, look here and here.
Regardless of how that debate turns out, though, it seems the native oyster may still have some market appeal - as long as it swears off sex.
Speaking personally, I sure hope this promise bears out, as Chesapeake oysters have been one of my favorite foods since childhood. I've sampled those grown and harvested from the East, West and Gulf coasts - and even some from Europe. All had their points - but the best I ever slurped were fresh-plucked from the bottom of the Wye River one brilliant fall morning. In the future, more of the oysters we eat from the bay may come from floating cages like the ones at right, rather than foraged from the wild as I once did.
(Photos: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers; National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration)


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