Anisette's fruits de mer A good friend, a table at Anisette and a towering plateau de fruits de mer: That's my idea of a perfect light supper at Alain Giraud's oh-so-French brasserie. I love to order a bottle of minerally white wine and alternate sips with crisp, tiny Kumamoto or Hood Canal oysters, pretty little clams and Carlsbad mussels, meaty crab legs and plump shrimp dipped, French-style, in a tomato-tinged Marie Rose sauce. If I really want to splurge, I'll order the biggest platter, the Royal, which comes with a whole poached lobster and makes a splendid dinner for two or three. Be sure to ask about any arrivages de la marée -- arrivals from the sea -- that ecailler (shellfish man) Christophe Happillon has got in that day. And if you're still hungry, order the lovely rack of lamb for two served with a sumptuous gratin dauphinoise. Anisette, the Historic Clock Tower Building, 225 Santa Monica Blvd. (at Second Street), Santa Monica, (310) 395-3200, www.anisettebrasserie.com. Photo: The seafood bar at Anisette Brasserie.
Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times