Comme Ça What a difference the morning makes at Comme Ça when light streams in the French windows of this handsome bistro from Sona's David Myers. Jugs of juices are lined up on the bar. Newspapers and style magazines are draped over bamboo sticks and the noise level is more subdued. If you're not all that hungry, order toasted baguette and terrific walnut and house-dried-raisin bread and a flaky croissant. The omelet, though, is curiously pale, missing the variations in texture that make a proper example so delicious. One morning it took three tries for the kitchen to get the coddled egg right. Never mind, there's still a custardy pain perdu ("lost bread," or French toast) made from fat slices of brioche dusted with powdered sugar. Also, Bruno's quiche laced with Gruyère is fabulously rich and delicious. Another great choice is eggs Norwegian, which feature house-cured gravlax with a poached egg and hollandaise. Comme Ça, 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 782-1178; www.commecarestaurant.com. Breakfast served 8 to 11:30 a.m. Monday through Friday; brunch 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Stefano Paltera / For The Times