By Alexandra Drosu
Every year new ingredients hit the market with promises of revolutionizing skin-care products and tapping the elusive Fountain of Youth. At times, they deliver, and substances such as retinol or peptides exceed expectations and change the landscape of skin care. Others fizzle with little or no impact. Weve polled more than 25 experts and asked them which ingredients are worth watching (and buying) in 2009.
They identified seven:
What they are: Described by New York dermatologist Dr. Amy B. Lewis as the Cadillac of peptides, growth factors are groups of proteins that are capable of stimulating cellular growth. Researchers have so far isolated a handful of growth factors with potential skin-care benefits: TNS, TGF beta and PSP (which includes growth factors, antioxidants and proteins called cytokines).
How they work: Dr. Leslie Baumann, director of the Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute at the University of Miami, says growth factors such as TGF beta (Transforming Growth Factor beta) can potentially stimulate cells to produce collagen. Increasing collagen improves wrinkles, she says. Scientists are still determining which combination of growth factors works most effectively.
Status: A couple of products, including Topix Citrix Serum with Growth Factor ($104; www.skinstore.com) and Neocutis Bio-restorative Skin Cream with PSP ($150; www.amazon.com), are breaking ground.
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