THE BEST WAY TO BALI
From LAX, connecting service (change of plane) to the Denpasar airport, about 15 miles from Ubud, is offered on China, Korean, Cathay Pacific, Singapore, Eva, Thai and Malaysia Airlines. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $840.
Driving on Bali is a challenge for anyone not familiar with the etiquette on the narrow roads. Most visitors hire a driver, usually from $20 to $30 a day. There are no taxis in Ubud, but a driver will take you anywhere in town for no more than $3. They are easily found on every corner and will call out "transport" and mime the turning of a steering wheel to get your attention.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (international dialing code), 62 (the country code for Indonesia) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Tjampuhan Spa, Jalan Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud; 361-975368, http://www.tjampuhan-bali.com. Near the center of town, the former royal guest house was built in 1928. Not all rooms are air-conditioned, and steep stairs lead to most rooms. Doubles from $103 a night.
Payogan Villa Resort & Spa, Jalan Cocoa 2, No. 77 Banjar Bunutan, Desa Kedewatan, Ubud; 361-978839, http://www.balipayoganresort.com. Twenty-three luxury villas set in a quiet valley 10 minutes outside town. Rates $250 to $850.
Alam Indah, P.O. Box 165, Nyuhkuning; 361-974629, http://www.alamindahbali.com. Ten simple rooms in lush setting near the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Rates start at $75 a night.
WHERE TO EAT
Café des Artistes, Jalan Bisma 9X, Ubud; 361-972706 . Creative Indonesian dishes, grilled fish and steak served with a Belgian flair. Entrees $8-$15.
Indus Restaurant, Jalan Raya, Sanggingan, Ubud; 361-977684, http://www.casalunabali.com. A favorite hangout for expats; deck offers great views of the Tjampuhan Valley. Entrees $10-$15.
Café Lotus, Jalan Raya, Ubud; 361-975660, http://www.lotus-restaurants.com. Bali and Asian dishes served in picturesque setting; traditional music and dances most nights. Entrees $5-$15.
WHAT TO DO
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, Jalan Monkey Forest, Padangtegal, Ubud; 361-971304, http://www.monkeyforestubud.com. The long-tailed macaques are thought to be descendants of the monkey general Hanuman. Admission about $2. Open 8 a.m.-6 p.m. daily
Gunung Kawi, Tampak Siring, Ubud. Massive carvings in stone cliffs date to the 11th century. Admission about $6.60. Open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
Goa Gajah, Ubud Main Road, Bedulu; 361-943401. Also known as the Elephant Cave, remnants reveal the links between Bali and Buddhism. Admission about $6.60. Open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
TO LEARN MORE
Bali Tourism Board, http://www.balitourismboard.org