Though contractors balked, Alesch and Standefer wanted to create arched ceilings that referenced the gorgeous Gustavino tile of New York subways and train stations. Standefer credits their set design background for the push to use an era-appropriate craft. "People will say, 'You can't do that anymore.' But in film, you have to learn techniques from 1900s," she said. The restaurant's seating has the same high-gloss, durable oil paint used on public park benches, and the lighting on the beams is a custom design built with basic fixtures and screw clamps. "You can move them, add them, take them away, reposition them," Alesch said. "We hate can [spot] lights. We think they're the scourge of the Earth." Roman and Williams is collaborating with the design store Matter on a lighting line.