The inspiration: Early 20th century artists, including Mondrian and Picasso. Primitive shapes, graphic forms and bold color, according to show notes.
The look: A 1920s tribal cabaret.
Key pieces: Kilts and dresses with pleats and folds of every kind -- sunray, box, knife pleats and more in perforated leather, black-and-white check, or with red, scroll-like details. Worn with leather harness tops or biker jackets, and gold cloche helmets. Tiered, horsehair fringe skirts and belly-baring tops. Red ostrich feather gowns that brought to mind Josephine Baker.
The verdict: A welcome departure from the hyper-pretty collections that Burton has shown since taking over from the house's namesake designer, toward something a little tougher and more modern. Yet somehow the whole experience felt flat and emotionless.