NEW YORK -- Jessica Chastain was in the house Thursday afternoon to see the Calvin Klein fall 2013 runway show at New York Fashion Week. Which was fitting, because the collection seemed to be designed for take-charge women, such as Chastain’s CIA agent character Maya in “Zero Dark Thirty.”
The inspiration: Intersections, according to designer Francisco Costa’s show notes, and parallel aesthetics — masculine and feminine, classic and new, soft and hard.
The look: Graphic minimalism, but not nearly as minimal as it has been in the past. Exaggerated proportions. A dark palette of black, blue and loden green mixed with white. Shift dresses in subtle tone-on-tone tartans with open backs and wide, military roller belts. Oversized alpaca coats with cool-looking, gold metal hinges on the flaps of oversized pockets. Woven felt fit n’ flare dresses with perforated spaces creating a lightness. Cropped, menswear-inspired trousers worn with belted jackets. Patent leather boots with chunky heels. Pumps with squared-off platform soles and gold plaques decorating the toes.
The verdict: One of Costa’s most wearable collections to date. He tapped into the season’s military and menswear trends, but in a way that was wholly original and modern.
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