Fans of Shin Thompson's previous restaurant, Bonsoiree, may recall this composition, but at Kabocha, the dish has been refined. It still features rare duck breast as a centerpiece, but now it's accompanied by cubes of duck confit encased in a crunchy panko crust, pieces of goose foie gras and triangles of rosti potatoes. A super-tart soupcon of gooseberry jam cuts through all that unctuous meat and brightens the whole dish. 952 W. Lake St., 312-666-6214. - P.V.
Zbigniew Bzdak, Chicago Tribune