Ambitious eateries set sights on South Bay
Name chefs are finally discovering the affluent area, with a number of upscale restaurants either now open or on the drawing board for Torrance, Manhattan Beach and Redondo Beach.
Diners at Manhattan Beach's M.B. Post. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
The culinary winds of fortune may be shifting, however, with the opening of former Water Grill chef David LeFevre's M.B. Post in Manhattan Beach and a restaurant called 1321 Downtown Taproom Bistro in Torrance, opened by a new restaurant development group called MOD and helmed by chef Greg Paul, formerly of the Oaks Gourmet in Hollywood.
Also, hovering on Manhattan Beach's watery horizon come August, is the promise of a beachfront restaurant called the Strand House with a menu by consulting chef Neal Fraser of Grace and executive chef and former Gjelina cook Travis Lorton. The 6,000-square-foot restaurant is the work of the Zislis Group, which has met with success in the area with ventures including Shade Hotel and Rock'n Fish.
And it was only a little more than two years ago that South Bay restaurateur Guy Gabriele revitalized his 30-year-old Manhattan Beach bistro, Café Pierre, by hiring chef Rémi Lauvand, whose résumé includes opening Michel Richard's erstwhile Citrus at Social Hollywood. Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila gave Café Pierre 2.0 a glowing review. Though Gabriele says the restaurant still isn't as busy as it would be if it were on the Westside, he takes heart that others in the area are now attempting more adventurous cookery as well.
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In fact, if early reactions to M.B. Post and 1321 are any indication, the area — long underserved by name chefs — may be in store for a bit of a boom. The demographic is decidedly affluent — Torrance's median household income is nearly $60,000, Redondo Beach's approaches $70,000 and Manhattan Beach's is just over $100,000. And most involved in the South Bay restaurant business agree that residents are looking for more than what they currently have.
"We never thought that the South Bay wasn't ready for the type of food we wanted to do," says LeFevre on a recent weekday afternoon while sitting at one of the long, wooden communal tables inside M.B. Post. "Although it didn't hit us until about a week before the opening how busy we were going to be. People down here have been very loyal. They are almost as excited as I've been."
Indeed, the restaurant is packed nearly every night, and it holds the feel of promise that comes with the start of an exciting new movement. If LeFevre can pull this off, it's almost certain others will follow.
His menu features farmers market produce; housemade bread, bacon-cheddar buttermilk biscuits, pretzels, mustards and olives; as well as a smart, tapas-style menu of ambitious dishes including New Zealand hiramasa with avocado and puffed bamboo rice; asparagus with poached Jidori hen egg and wild mushrooms; and buttermilk-marinated organic fried chicken with lemon-rosemary ranch dressing. Then there are the cocktails: smooth, fresh creations featuring housemade syrups, juices and gastriques.
If LeFevre has put his soul into his cooking, he has put it into the décor as well, which he guided every step of the way. Custom ironwork, walnut cutting board tabletops, lots of reclaimed wood, old mailboxes and an electrified beach cruiser bicycle above the hostess station elevate rustic chic to rarified air. In other words, the kind of relaxed and breezy beach setting you wouldn't find at a fine-dining restaurant in, say, Brentwood.
Which is pretty much the idea. People in the South Bay often drive to L.A.'s Westside to indulge in a fine meal, says Mike Zislis, head of the Zislis Group. So with the Strand House, which is across from the Manhattan Beach Pier, he plans to "morph a bit of the Westside into Manhattan Beach, but not go too far into the Westside because, if you go too far, people resent it."
That's not to say that the South Bay doesn't have good restaurants that the community loves. For example, Chez Melange in Redondo Beach has been around for nearly 30 years and dubs itself an "upmarket bistro, cocktail lounge and gastropub," and Gabriele has another restaurant in Redondo Beach called Zazou, which features Tuscan cuisine.
Still, Gabriele says he opened Zazou with an ambitious menu but had to "take three steps back. You want to be innovative, but you have to be sure that you don't lose a part of your clientele."
To that end, the Strand House will feature a New American menu that consulting chef Fraser says "won't be as rustic as M.B. Post but something that fits the space. It's a very small community. I definitely think people are primed for more than they have."
With tourists flocking to the coast, rent is often too high to make fine-dining concepts financially feasible.
"It's amazing that there are almost no restaurants down here on the beach," says Zislis. "The fact that my partners bought this real estate — a four-story restaurant right on the beach — is amazing. Not only does it not happen in Manhattan Beach, it doesn't happen in the South Bay, period."
In addition to a downstairs lounge for dancing and a subterranean wine-cellar dining room, the Strand House will feature third- and fourth-level dining patios with ocean views.
"Rock'n Fish draws from Marina Del Rey to Palos Verdes," says Zislis. "I just want to cast a little bigger net. It's such an incredible view, I think people will drive a little bit farther for it."
And maybe Manhattan Beach residents will no longer feel the need to drive as far to eat.