Bare-faced beauty

Clean summer looks from Oscar de la Renta, at top, and Jil Sander, bottom. Anastsasia Brow Wiz, at far left, Ahava purifying mud mask, Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour and Clinique Chubby Stick. (Tribune photo illustration)

Summer's bare-faced beauty can drain the color from a woman's cheeks.

"Natural" looks great on Kate Moss on the May cover of British Vogue. But how does the nonmodel citizen achieve the glowing ideal versus the undone, run-down variation -- especially with a new breed of matte lip colors that border on chalky?

Chanel celebrity makeup artist Angela Levin said one secret is dewy skin everywhere -- including eyelids and cheeks -- except the center of the face (the small T-zone).

Another aid:

''We are keeping it nude this year but making the colors just a bit stronger," she said, "introducing pastels as well as natural colors."

The basics

One key, whether you opt for a tinted moisturizer or foundation: "Use very little powder — only where you know your skin needs it," said Sephora Pro makeup artist Erik Soto, who created the nude-faced looks for the Elizabeth & James fall ready-to-wear collection.

"Wherever you see shine building throughout the day that's where you want to apply the powder," he said, citing Laura Mercier translucent loose setting powder as a favorite ($35, nordstrom.com). "The radiance on all the other parts of the face makes the skin three-dimensional and natural."

Another major factor: Behind-the-scenes skin care. "Add a clay mask to your routine twice a week to detoxify your pores and combat breakouts," recommends celebrity makeup artist Neil Scibelli, who likes Ahava's purifying mud mask ($32, ahavaus.com). For daily help, especially as skin matures, consider L'Oreal Youth Code Texture Perfector Pore Vanisher ($24.99, lorealparisusa.com).

A final power player: Brows, which are trending fuller this summer. Soto considers Anastasia Brow Wiz pencil a must-have ($21, sephora.com).

Petra Strand, founder of Pixi makeup, cautions against going too dark when filling in brows. "Try matching to your hair color for the best, most natural effect," she said.

Bonus tips and tricks

Foundation: For a nude but vibrant look, choose a warm foundation tone, one that's a half-shade or a full shade deeper than your skin tone, suggests Lori Taylor-Davis, pro global makeup artist for Smashbox Cosmetics.

Mix a highlighter or illuminator into it for added radiance, applying it with a synthetic brush in a circular motion, she said.

For lids: Soto likes the Kat Von D Monarch eye shadow palette ($46, sephora.com) for matte-neutral lids, followed "with your favorite brown mascara."

For lips: Levin likes the matte pink Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in La Caline ($35, nordstrom.com). Soto likes Clinique Chubby Stick in Heaping Hazelnut ($17, sephora.com).

About bronzer: "It's important to blend it down to your neck and chest bone area for an evenly bronzed look," Levin said. She applies Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour SPF 15 ($57.50-$65) with a kabuki brush ($70, chanel.com) — before mascara, "so that none of the bronzing powders get stuck on lashes."

Inside tip on eyes: "A flesh-colored liner applied to the inner rim of eyes makes the eyes look larger, more wide awake and the whole face fresher," Strand said. (Pixi by Petra Crayon Combo in Wide Awake, $18, target.com)

A definite dew: "Enhance that summer glow by applying a highlighter above your cheeks," Scibelli said. He likes Flower Glisten Up Highlighter, in Pearl Shimmer for fair skin, Gold Coaster for medium tones and Honey Bronze for deeper tones ($9.98, walmart.com). 

wdonahue@tribune.com