This is not a wine for people with delicate Euro-palates. It's a full-throated, concentrated, ripe (15.5 percent alcohol) red zinfandel with a distinctive old-vines character. It offers deep blackberry fruit, hints of chocolate, coffee and herbs and more than a suggestion of vintage port minus the sweetness.

Despite the high alcohol, there's no "burn" in the finish, and it goes down as smoothly as its starts.

2007 St. Francis "Old Zines" Zinfandel

From: Sonoma County, Calif.

Price: $22

Serve with: Pasta, pizza, grilled meats