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Wine Find: 2008 Fortress 'Musque Clone' Sauvignon Blanc

"Grass is for Cows" is the motto of this producer, and it delivers a sauvignon blanc that is notable for its lack of grassy, herbal notes. Neither is it overly fig-flavored — the extreme some producers veer toward. It's a subtle, smoky, mineral-infused wine that reminds me very much of a good Graves from Bordeaux. It seems to be structured for longer aging than most California whites, and could develop very nicely with a year or two aging — something I rarely say about a sauvignon blanc. It's complex, persistent and very dry — all good things at the table.

Wine Find: 2008 Fortress "Musque Clone" Sauvignon Blanc

From: Red Hills, Lake County, Calif.

Price: $14

Serve with: Salmon, swordfish

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